Quotes of the Day

The most whispered-about dining room in London right now can be found up an ill-lit staircase at the back of the old Ten Bells pub in Spitalfields. This is temporary home to the Young Turks, a collective of ambitious chefs who won their spurs in some of the country's most influential kitchens. Founders James Lowe and Isaac McHale are raising the capital to set up proper restaurants, but have meanwhile been showcasing their skills through pop-ups, including a residency in a car park in Peckham, south London.

While they may have acquired the feverish word-of-mouth following usually reserved for the underground club circuit, the Young Turks' food is a serious proposition. Dinner at the Ten Bells is a weekly changing set menu, which may include the likes of parchment-thin blood crackers perched on creamy rabbit liver, and melted Stinking Bishop cheese on boiled potato and pickled shallots (a witty riff on that British snack classic the cheese-and-onion potato chip). Dishes are rooted in a commitment to seasonal heritage ingredients, including fallow deer, mallard duck and rare radishes.

The Ten Bells residency runs until late spring, when it's likely the chefs will be in a position to set up establishments of their own. Until then, gastronomes will have to put up with loitering on a pub staircase if they want to get a walk-in table for the second sitting. See youngturks.co.

• Hettie Judah
• The stars of London's pop-up restaurants